Home » Tanzania » Day 10. Mon 30th September Gombe Streams NP

Today we visit the Gombe Streams National Park, the longest running primate research project in the world, started by Jane Goodall in 1960 and now taken over by Charlotte Uhlenbroek. The park can only be accessed from the lake - to keep out poachers and other undesirables there is no access from the land - and a boat has been booked to pick us up at 06:00 an take us down the lake to the park. This will be one of the highlights of the trip, and we are up at 05:00 to grab a quick breakfast before the boat arrives. Unfortunately the hotel staff conform to typical African standards of time keeping, and at 5:45 no breakfast is yet in evidence. Finally a pot of tea and some bread and jam appear, and we quickly slap some sandwiches together, grab the box of cold drinks prepared by Ken and, with the German guy in tow, head down to the shore and pile into the boat that has, to our relief, arrived in good time. It is a two hour trip to Gombe Stream, and an early arrival is recommended, as the chimps visit feeding stations around dawn and it is a good opportunity to find them.
Ken is obviously very disappointed not be able to come with us as planned. He waves us off and, as we chug away, we are unaware of Mama Kassim, the plump hotel proprietrix, running down the beach with our packed lunch, which was completed just a little later than breakfast.

Day 10. Mon 30th September Gombe Streams NP

DaveMidgley
2005-10-22 12:22:48

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half of our group had already sighted the other half of Goblin's group, as they also appear out of the trees. The chimps settle down for a midmorning rest - right in the middle of the path - and the youngsters play tag around a tree. Despite being so close they are difficult to photograph through the trees and Nathan nearly cripples himself trying to get a good angle.

Despite the agitation of one of the guides we watch the chimps for a good deal longer than our allotted hour, our excuse being that they are in the path so we can't go on. Eventually they get up and disappear into the trees and we continue on our way. Then we hear them once more coming up behind us, and to our amazment and delight, one of the adults saunters up the path behind us, as ever quite oblivious to our presence. In their own forest the chimps have absolute right of way, and the guides quickly chivvy us off the path as the chimp moseys on by, near enough to reach out and touch.

Although we know that these animals can be dangerous, there seems no reason to be fearful, and it is a final magical moment. Jane Goodall lived here for two years before she even saw a chimp, and, although they are now accustomed to the presence of their human observers, there are still no guarantees, and many people visit the park and see no chimps at all. We set off down the mountain to the beach knowing that we have been extemely lucky to have had such a wonderful day.

When we emerge from the trees by the side of Lake Tanganyika we quickly realise that we are a fair distance away from the park entrance and our boat. We must be in the boat and under way by 16:00 to get back in time for tea, but as it is only about 14:30 we have plenty of time, and we set off. Out of the trees the heat is scorching and we are all exhausted after our experience. The water looks irrisistable, and this is probably one of the least likely places to pick up bilharzia, there being no vegetation and few people. ...