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I love steamed buns and was always on the lookout for vendors that looked hygienic. The place I found in Xian looked great and they had four different kinds, each with a different filling.

China 1998 - Part Three: Xian & Beijing

Dougburnett
2003-11-22 16:39:38

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on the hotel steps - which were off limits to the beggars - and see if these kids were alone. I found that each of them had an adult that they would sit with occasionally. It looked to me like the kids decided who to approach on their own, so the purpose of the adult wasn't clear - maybe they were there to collect the money. But I also noticed that very few people gave anything to the kids so I suspect there was little to collect.

Later I went looking for beer to drink in my room. When I found a vendor who had the brand I wanted, I walked up and asked, "How much?" - that much English all the vendors understand. All of a sudden there was a new guy standing between me and the vendor. This guy told me, in English, that the price was 10 yuan. Now I knew better than that: I shook my head and started to leave. The original vendor then yelled, calling me back and held up four fingers - by my reckoning, the correct price.

So I got my money out and gave him two 2 yuan notes. He took them and then held up a finger and pointed at my wand of bills - he was trying to get me to give him more money. I shook my head and reached for my two 2 yuan notes. It this point he pulled his hand back and, with a huge smile, gave me my beer.

Friday, April 17, 1998

I started the day with a visit to the Large Goose Pagoda. These places were all starting to look the same to me - a pagoda surrounded by a large garden full of tourists, mostly Chinese, taking pictures of each other. But they were really just jumping off places for my wanderings.

Outside in a little open-front shop I noticed a guy sitting in front of a computer. On the screen there was the outline of an ear. I was intrigued and stepped closer for a better look. Quickly his assistant handed me a notebook full of letters. They were testimonials, the kind you usually see in carpet shops, telling how great the place ...