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A straightforward crossing (apart from the $20 road tax) into Malawi and we headed straight to Nkhata Bay for a much needed rest from the continually bottom pounding roads of the last few days.

Cape Town - 24th July

Pam.tom
2005-10-15 19:16:26

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A straightforward crossing (apart from the $20 road tax) into Malawi and we headed straight to Nkhata Bay for a much needed rest from the continually bottom pounding roads of the last few days.
Unwittingly we arrived at the beginning of the flying ant season on Lake Malawi – what? You may well ask. Huge clouds of ants hovering over the surface they’re slowly are blown into shore where the locals go into what only can described as a feeding frenzy. Children, grans, everybody rush out to harvest the ‘delicacies’. They’re fried into ant cakes and apparently not bad – I’ll take the others word for it!
With football on TV, beer at the bar and BBQ’s almost every night - all on the beautiful setting of Lake Malawi -we found it hard to drag ourselves away and 6 days later we somewhat reluctantly made our way south.
With the black market exchange rate double the official one in Zimbabwe we desperately needed to stock up with dollars in Lilongwe. We camped at the golf club – where the list of rules includes what to do should you meet dangerous animals on the course – the boys decided to brave to local wildlife for a round and discovered the only danger was ignoring the etiquette of golf when the club chairman is playing behind you. With only 7 holes under their belt they were thrown off the course – the shame of it!!!
Finally, with a fistful of dollars, we crossed into Mozambique – nearly 6 weeks after we should have. With warnings of landmines ringing in our ears we were relieved to find a campsite in Tete itself and not to have to bush camp along the Tete corridor. So we enjoyed a huge steak BBQ as the sun set over the Zambezi and practiced trying to turn our dreadful Spanish into even more dreadful Portuguese at the bar – much to the amusement of the locals!
The Zimbabwe border offered none of the hassle we expected (and with my press card well and truly hidden in the depths of Russell) we changed ...