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January 2003

Quebec City

David Aaronson
2005-09-29 15:08:51

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the red light district, so to speak, of colonial Quebec. It's a good walk down from the upper town. There's a funicular near the Chateau once you've seen enough stairs. The lower town has some interesting architecture but it's harder to escape the crowds here. The area around the funicular in particular was extra dense. This is the Place Royale, the oldest section of this oldest city (8). We're told there are street performers galore here in nicer weather but only one musician was willing to brave the cold on this day.

Just a few miles up the St. Lawrence river is the suburb of Beauport, best known as the site of Montmorency Falls (9). These are invariably billed as 'higher than Niagara', which they are. They aren't nearly as impressive as Niagara of course but they are quite scenic and most surprising is how close to the autoroute they are. Literally you drive right past the base of these falls on your way into Quebec City from the east. We have no doubt this is one big tourist trap in warmer months. The parking prices are exorbitant, as are the trips on the cable car which takes you to the top. In the winter, everything is free (everything that isn't closed that is).

From the top you can hike to an overlook on either side of the falls, connected by the footbridge you can see here (10). From the bottom (about a 5 minute drive away) you can spend a really long time trying to carefully balance your camera in the snow because you have no dexterity left in your frozen fingers. Or, if you prefer, you can hike around the right side of the falls (as this picture goes) up to the platforms at the top (stairs galore). If you're lazier and wealthier you can take the cable car which is just off to the left of this picture. Unfortunately you can't see the ice-climbers in this picture but it is quite impressive that they hadn't either fallen or frozen yet.

Quebec City's skyline as seen from Montmorency falls (11). The Chateau Frontenac is on the far left. The central section is the more modern business district. Incidentally, we don't recommend trying to find a bank in Beauport. There are a few zillion in Quebec City proper, so get money before you range out on side trips or you may end up trapped in the same mall parking lot we were in.

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