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April 2001

Victoria and Vancouver

David Aaronson
2005-09-25 16:26:16

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the summer Butchart Gardens puts on firework displays in the evenings from a large grassy hill.

Victoria sits at the extreme southwest corner of Vancouver Island on a spectacular natural harbor. This impressive structure is the Empress Hotel (5) built around 1900 by the Canadian Pacific Railroad group (also responsible for the Chateau at Lake Louise). It has been a focal point of Victoria's upper-class social life since then hosting numerous dignitaries. For the jaw-dropping sum of $40 (Canadian) you can enjoy afternoon tea and snacks in an admittedly grand setting.

Victoria is the capital of British Columbia and this is the eye-catching parliament building located directly at the head of the harbor. The harbor itself is C-shaped so that the downtown area is somewhat protected. We spent a little time driving along the coast on the other side of town and found it, on that day at least, to be blustery and frigid and shockingly different from the peaceful air that permeates the harborfront.

Here is Melanie with - you guessed it - two bronze otter sculptures (6). This is one of a slew of monuments in the general vicinity of the parliament building. This is not actually paying tribute to otters so much as to early explorers and the importance of the fur trade to the area.

The next morning we arrived at the Coho Ferry to Port Angeles, Washington at 9:00 AM. The ferry was scheduled to leave at 10:30 AM and we were shocked to learn it was already full. The only other trip of the day left at 4:00 PM and we were told to be back before 1:00 PM. Finding ourselves with some extra time we headed west along the coast. Once out of the suburbs of Victoria there is really only one town of note (Sooke) before the sign warning you that you've just passed the last gas station for some 200 km (120 mi). The road ends several hours' drive away at Port Renfrew.

We didn't go quite that far though. We stopped at French Beach Provincial Park (7) instead which is supposedly an excellent place to see migrating gray whales. Especially, claimed the interpretive signs, during the month of April. Of course we've already mentioned the alternate title to this trip so it won't come as a surprise when we say that we saw absolutely nothing. Well, we saw loons, a lot of birds, and some enormous kelp strands washed up on the beach, but certainly no whales. Despite that, the beach is a lovely remote getaway only a little more than an hour from Victoria.

We returned at 12:30 and parked for the ferry. Needless to say, if you're taking the car ferry get there very early. After parking you can wander about the city centre until you need to be back at the boat. This an overview of Victoria from the ferry as we departed (8). The seaplane in the foreground would be a shorter (albeit more expensive) way to get to Vancouver or Seattle and helicopters are also an option.

The Coho ferry is not nearly as spacious as those run by British Columbia. Furthermore you're not allowed to visit your car during the trip so take everything you need from the start. This trip also takes about 90 minutes. Normally the Olympic mountains would be aproaching impressively as you close in on Port Angeles but the cloud ceiling was very low and we only got a couple glimpses of the snow-capped peaks as we neared. Athletic ability may be required to get in and out of your car.