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April 2000

Delos

David Aaronson
2005-09-24 21:27:45

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Delos, the center of the Cyclades, has been inhabited since at least the 3rd millenium B.C. It rose in importance as the Greeks did and around 480 BC it became the center of the Delian League. The Delian League in turn kept its treasury on Delos making it a rather wealthy location. They also passed several decrees, including that no one could be born or die on the island. Pregnant women were quickly shipped off to neighboring islands as was anyone who became ill.

Delos became immensely wealthy and was so impressive that the Romans kept it as a free port when they came into power. It finally collapsed in 88 BC when Mithridates conquered it. What is left today is one of the most extensive ruin sites anywhere in the world. The entire island is strewn with sections of walls and marble fragments. It is also still being excavated. This is the view from the small harbor where one arrives at Delos (1).

Unfortunately, you only have about four hours on the island, which is not even remotely enough. We visited the museum first which is where the famous marble lions that once guarded the sacred lake are now stored. The 'sacred lake' is the supposed birthplace of Apollo. We were awestruck within a few minutes of arriving on the island. In all directions are the remains of temples, homes, and monuments. There is also an impressive array of different cultures that left their mark on the island. Shrines for Samothracian, Egyptian, and Syrian Gods are interspersed amongst the Greek ones. This is the Temple of Isis (2) which stands above most of the town. (Or at least the town that has been excavated thus far)

Entire sections of the residential areas are more or less intact. The streets are still clearly outlined, many of them with sewers running underneath. The northern section of town featured more modest living quarters. Here most of the homes were only a couple rooms. Wildflowers have taken over in force ...