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Malawi
Am now writing from an internet cafe in ilha de mocambique but the electricity keeps going out so I hope I can finish it tonight. I returned to Nkhata Bay for a few days of sun and relaxation to clear my cold and also to sell my mountain bike to Katja from Finland who is looking after Njaya lodge for a while. From here I took the Illala ship across Lake Malawi to Likoma island, sleeping under stars on the 1st class open deck.

Southern Africa - part 7

Stevemonty
2005-09-23 18:50:48

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Malawi
Am now writing from an internet cafe in ilha de mocambique but the electricity keeps going out so I hope I can finish it tonight. I returned to Nkhata Bay for a few days of sun and relaxation to clear my cold and also to sell my mountain bike to Katja from Finland who is looking after Njaya lodge for a while. From here I took the Illala ship across Lake Malawi to Likoma island, sleeping under stars on the 1st class open deck.

Likoma is a kind of paradise, remote with golden beaches, a couple of small villages, clear blue freshwater and a desert-like hilly landscape scattered with baobab trees. I slept on the beach here at the excellent Mango Drift run by Lola from Rio for $1.50 per night. A short walk away from Kaya Mawa or "maybe tomorrow" a luxurious but traditionally styled hotel set around rock islands and a stunning bay where prices are $150 per night. Both places are owned by Andrew from London whos been living here about 10 years.

My first day on the island I walked out over the hill to renew my visa. There are only 6000 people on the island but there is an Anglican cathedral the size of Winchester´s. Who should be visiting that day but the Bishop of Birmingham, my home city. The two cathedrals are linked and the Bishop who I believe is the first black bishop in Britain is Ugandan born, exiled to Britain during Idi Amin´s era.
After introducing myself I was invited to sit down with him, the Canon from Birmingham and a member of the clerger for Sutton Coldfield, very close to home. We watched the talented local choir perform a special song for their visitors from Birmingham. The Bishop accepted the traditional present of boiled eggs and a carved rhino with much appreciation and the people of Likoma were very pleased.
A few days later some fellow travellers and I went to visit the local witchdoctor, also a really nice guy in his sixties and full of energy and emotion with his congregation. We had to walk barefoot ...

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