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A Voyage through the South of Morocco

Magical Morocco

Annette
2005-08-29 23:05:06

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want to see the Mellah (the old Jewish quarter)? The Synagogue? Here, you can go in and see the Torah. I will wait outside. But the housekeeper, who opened the door to the simple synagogue set up inside a large residence, shook her head and told me that everything was locked up. Do you want to see the Jewish cemetery? All these questions were asked, but an answer was assumed to be in the affirmative. I was going to get a particular type of city tour; no "ifs, ands or buts" about it. With quick strides, he swiftly walked ahead of me to the outskirts of town, to the walled cemetery, which was not only locked up, but had a guard posted in front of it. Too bad, he said,it is closed. Do you want to see a Jewish shop? I had expected that invitation for a while. He had scheduled the shop experience at the end of the sightseeing event; obviously to give me time to do some serious shopping. A man who claimed to be from the deep southern desert ran the tiny shop, filled -to my guide's credit- with truly original items. A few times a year, so the shopkeeper explained, he comes here to sell his unique artifacts. I greatly enjoyed hearing his enticing stories, designed to get me to buy something, anything for that matter.

The shopping experience in Morocco is truly unique. It drives many a Westerner crazy, or at least confuses him. After so many trips to Morocco, my own house is filled with treasures and I could set up shop myself - I'd almost have to at this point, or move to a larger house to have new walls and floors to cover! Yet, I marvel at and thrive on the ingenious salesmanship I encounter. The bargaining process is like a dance, led sometimes by the buyer, sometimes by the seller. Exclamations of disbelief, cajoling, push and pull, are an age-old ritual that is part of mercantile life here. To this day, I would like to be a fly on a native Moroccan's shoulder when he does his shopping. How does the process differ? How much cheaper ...