Home » Bhutan » Visiting Bhutan

Land of the Thunder Dragon (Or, less mythical, "Land of the Friendly Dogs")

Visiting Bhutan

Annette
2005-08-29 18:40:32

Displayed times (last time: )

undergone restoration. It will take another three or four years for the work to be completed. This monastery, situated next to a river, is large and rather imposing. Outside the main entrance, a small army of women was sitting on their haunches, making gravel with sharp hammers. The metallic clinking of the hammers filled the air. Inside, the courtyard was torn up and in the process of being replaced with the beautiful flagstones one sees everywhere in Bhutan. Every wall, every pillar and every ceiling of this monastery was being repainted, re-carved, and renovated in one way or another. Balconies were finished, and a Bhudda statue more than a story tall was being built. Skilled craftsmen and laborers were at work at every turn, while the monks were busy with their meditations in another part of the building. This, I expect, is what it must have been like when the great cathedrals of Europe were built. The activity resembled a Bruegel painting -except that this was not medieval Europe, but Bhutan!

Again, I felt privileged for being allowed to see this. Undoubtedly, once the monastery is complete, it will be closed to non-Bhuddist visitors. Interestingly, this renovation project had symbolic meaning to me: the cultural heritage is being maintained, while changes of major proportions knock at Bhutan's borders. The country has opened its doors a little, for a careful view of the outside. Unlike many other developing countries, it is walking a fine line between traditional lifestyles and development. The King has made it his goal to develop Bhutan slowly and carefully, using the "Middle Path". He has given up personal power, has given his people even the right to remove him through a vote of no confidence. He lives simply and travels through the country, which often means long treks on foot to remote areas. He undoubtedly is attempting to be selective in ways of progress and is attempting to maintain equilibrium between tradition and the introduction of the new. This is a noble goal, and a difficult challenge. Already, there is an obvious gap between a small group of Bhutanese who have been able to translate their (often foreign) education into successful businesses, and the other 90+% of the population who still live a traditional farm life in rural areas or who work for very low wages. There is only one newspaper, and telecommunication is still in its infancy. A famous phrase the King is known for is "I am more interested in Gross National Happiness than in Gross National Product". I hope that all people with influence in Bhutan are sincere in this manner, hope they have enlightened leadership on all levels, and I wish them luck. Tashi Delek!

(Travel in December 1999-January 2000 - Story posted February 2000)

Photos & text by Annette Solyst

copyright Annette Solyst