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In September 1970, I was in the far north of Thailand. I had been travelling with a guy from New Zealand who was too lazy to get out of bed and catch the early bus from Chiang Rai to Chieng Khong. I took a boat across the Mekong to Ban Houei Sai in Laos. While I had an easy exit from Thailand, just finding Immigration in Laos was often a trial. I was to learn that it wasn't enough to have permission to enter and leave Laos but was also necessary to be stamped in and out of every town. I ended up with four pages of bright red stamps.

Laos - A Wartime Visit

Mrg
2004-09-14 17:04:23

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After making a few inquiries at the river, I was directed to a nearby house where the resident admitted to being the man who stamped passports - and stamped mine twice, just to be sure. I found a cheap hotel in town, had a shower and sat on the balcony drinking beer, watching the people go by. Everyone seemed to be wearing (at least) part of a "tiger" suit - camouflage clothing - some with pants, some with a shirt. Everyone carried a weapon of some kind. I felt positively naked. The guy I had left behind came down the street looking for me, but as he was unreliable, I let him find his own way.

Later, I was to stroll around the village and discover the "airport" - essentially a flat field with a road running through it. By the side of the road was a wooden hut which I learned was a combination of Air Traffic Control, Departure Lounge and CIA Headquarters. When I say CIA, the official title in those parts was "Air America" but for some strange reason the Americans denied it was CIA - although it was common knowledge. They were flying two Cessna's at the time, one in the air and one on standby. When one came in to land the other took off. They were flying mainly leaflet and arms drops, I was told.

I inquired around about how to travel south and found that my only real option was to fly to Vientiane - Luang Prabang was cut off except by air. It was too dangerous to travel down the Mekong River due to bandits. The area is called the "Plain of Jars" and is populated mostly by Hmong tribespeople. I decided to fly to Vientiane on the next flight in two days time. I learned that the New Zealander had been trying to hitch a ride with "Air America" - but they just laughed at him. He subsequently took a boat down the Mekong - I was to see him again in Bangkok.

The flight south was in an ancient DC3. I boarded and as the only "roundeye" (Westerner) was given a seat. These were folded against the sides of the plane which was in reality ...