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September 1999

Greece (Nafplio), Crete (Matala and Rethymnon), Italy (Tuscany and the Cinque Terre), Monaco and the South of France.

Jvi
2004-09-14 11:44:18

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and then the owner pointed across the road and indicated we should go sit. A few minutes later he came over with a tray.

The next day we drove towards Iraklion through some very nice gorges and visited the Archeological Museum where all Knossos and Phaistos treasures are kept. It’s worth a visit. We walked around the old town area. It was much better than I thought it would be. We had stopped in Iraklion on a previous trip and found it dirty and congested. The old town area was worth a stop if you go to the museum. We stopped at a café for a gyros lunch. Then we left for Rethymnon and the Fortezza Hotel where we had booked a suite. This was our spurge for Greece. We had stayed here before and we liked the suites so we had reserved in advance. On the previous trip we had just walked in off the street and they gave us a suite for $56US per night. We paid a little more this trip, 19,000 drachmas, about $70US. The Hotel Fortezza has a nice courtyard with a swimming pool; that's our suite on the top right. The Hotel Fortezza is right in the old town of Rethymnon, yet it’s secluded. Rethymnon has a lot of jewelry stores and tavernas. A great place to eat and on our last trip we had discovered the harbor area on our last night in town, an area we had missed the first two trips. Well, it was worth the return. The fish was great and the service was fantastic. We forgot about Wolfgang and the bad experience. We would start out at night by the seaside tavernas (Kostas Bar) and then walk to the harbor tavernas. We ate twice at the Cavo D’Oro Taverna on the harbor and watched the full moon rise. It was beautiful. We ordered grilled octopus and a grilled sea bream with some good house wine. The first night I told the owner that I wanted to eat slowly and not rush, he said fine. I have found that some waiters assume Americans want to eat and rush away. The second night when we walked up the owner said, "Welcome back, glad to see you..and you want to ...