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Number of days of toil and sweat it took me to cover the final 100 miles to<br />Port Moresby: 12“Present fears are less than horrible imaginings? - William Shakespeare<br /><br />“Nothing will ever be attempted if all possible objections must first be overcome? - Samuel Johnson

The Long Struggle to Port Moresby- The surprises of Papua New Guinea

Rob Lilwall
2007-12-01 15:13:45

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II as the Japanese plundered their way south towards Australia. In the end, just a handful of inexperienced, young Ozzy recruits had to defend the trail against the vastly outnumbering Japanese force. It must be said that they were heroes to stop the Japanese passing. The trail itself is now a popular trekking route with tourists (one of the few successful tourist endeavours in the country), though it is famously
grueling with nine huge ascents and descents through the high jungled ridges.

I was initially very uncertain as to whether it was plausible to carry or push my bike over it (especially as this was the rainy season when tourists didn't walk the trail), but thanks to the enthusiastic advice and encouragement of the tour company Kokoda Trekking Ltd (see www.kokodatrail.com.au for details of their excellent tours) I decided to give it a go. On my first attempt with a local guide we got about a third of the way before we were forced to turn back by a ravenous swollen river which had destroyed all the tree bridges, and which admitted no passing. I felt very disappointed and worn out and was on the verge of giving up but thankfully, another eager, local guide, Tom Hango, was up for the challenge and encouraged me to make a second attempt. This time the rivers were lower and the sun had his hat on as we climbed and we stumbled through the valleys and mountains and villages where a bicycle had never before been seen. Swamps, fallen trees and 2000m high ridges would present daily challenges, but with Tom carrying my heavy pack and me struggling to maintain my footing with a bike hanging off my shoulder we made steady progress. Each night we camped next to friendly streams or villages perched amidst the great mountains and then eventually, after seven long days, we crashed out of the forest and wearily onto the firm surface of a real road. I cycled with relief the final 50 km ride into the Port Moresby -we had made it!

So I am pleased to ...