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Qsar Al-Haj, Libya
Sunday, Jan 14, 2007

The Last Day

David Murray
2007-03-04 10:35:46

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We packed our bags, turned off the free internet one last time and dumped our bags in the van. As usual, we had our two Labs with us, Walid and Yousef. We had over a two hour drive to get where we were going today. Qsar Al-Haj. It wasn't long before we were in the desert and not much longer before I was asleep. As usual, I was woken at a police stop where they check your paperwork. Thankfully I am travelling in the guise as a dirty stinking smelly Pom and not the dodgy Aussie you all know and love, so we were quickly waved through. A couple of turns later, and we had arrived at our destination. Qsar Al-Haj.

The million dollar question that is asked, why here, well, Qsar means castle and this is a round mud brick with date palm trees circular building which was used as both a defensive and storage structure. We paid the usual camera ticket money and went in. For a castle that is over 800 years old it is pretty impressive. Inside there are 114 rooms, which these Izzy lovers built which just so happens to correspond with the amount of suras in the Quran. Being of the non-religious type, I didn't know this so I am reading you this info from a book !!! We ventured into a few of the holes and some still had leftover grain whilst others had old amphoras in them. The majority however, just had pigeons and shit. We climbed up to the next level, and the platform was only around a metre in width. The health and safety people obviously had not been out to check this site as there was no handrail. I kind of felt a little scared, so I did my best, making sure I didn't piss myself, and timidly, edged my way round the platform. Inside the rooms was the same shit, including the pigeons. I think they were slightly pissed off that we were there because they kept dive bombing us and flying in and out of the holes. Where were the pigeon thieves from Trafalgar Square who catch the pigeons and sell them to the local curry houses when you need them? We took a load of photos, then climbed down. Next door, there were some old ruins, so we went and had a look through there. Apparently, the Lab Government of the 50's, decided to re-locate these people, so their mudbrick houses, were left to crumble and now tourists climb all over them. Once we had finished, it was time to jump back in the car.

We were now on our way back to the border. There was acres and acres of deserts. The only things that we saw were the herds, pods, schools, governments, flocks or whatever you want to call them of camels. I have never seen so many. We jumped out a few times, and once again, our two Lab guides told us how dangerous it was !!! They really need to get out more !!! Not long after, the border came into view and it was time to bid these two Labs, plus the country of Labya a goodbye. It took around ten minutes and then we were gone, back into no man's land, heading towards the sanity that is Tunisia.

And Finally

We only had four days which is never enough. There are some good things to see, including the Roman ruins, but I won't be returning whilst you still have to do a tour. On the otherhand, those of you that do know me, know I have wanted to come here and also visit North Korea and Bhutan, two other countries that tours need to be taken. Some say once bitten, twice shy, yes, but I am still willing to go on a tour to those other two countries.