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After arriving in Arequipa a city of 1 million we found ourselves a nice hotel for around 8 pounds a night - fully equipped with Cable TV and excellent shower. First point of call was coffee and black jungle cake sitting in a cafe overlooking the central plaza. Life is relaxing at the moment. Some nice Italian food followed by a comfy bed.

Volcanoes and Valleys

James and Anne Walkington
2006-09-11 11:37:11

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Getting up at 4.30am our donkey was 30mins late but we eventually set off up the grassy slopes. As we gained altitude the views opened up across the surrounding mountains and canyon. Above around 4700m it was starting to get hard work despite not carrying much. After 5 hours Paso Cerani came into view and we struggled the last few metres onto the top. It was freezing cold on top so we didn´t hang around. We sent the donkey back down put our rucksacks on and set off down towards the Valle del los Volcanoes. A steep and rocky descent past llareta and llamas brought us to a large grassy campsite next to a small stream.

A pleasant night followed although disturbed by a dog from a small corral nearby. The llamas came down low at night to join our campsite. The following morning was again bright and sunny and we set off back towards civilisation along a path which descended through cactus and wildflowers. Eventually arrived in Chachas another small village although big enough to have a shop and a small hostel. After being made to wait 2 hours outside we eventually viewed what was a horrible room. About a dozen bed cramed into a small room, we shared the room with old rotting meat and what looked like blood splatter patterns on the wall. Never really worked out what happened at this place but we didn't hang around in the morning to find out.

After walking up a very steep hill to a small saddle we realised the bridge that had been there had recently been washed away and there was a new road and bridge. Grudgingly we descended back to Chachas and Monkey found it pretty easy in James´ rucksackthen walked around the hill which we had just climbed up prior to picking up our original path 3 hours later. The remainder of the walk to Andagua, our ending point, was through old lava flows and cactus covered sand dunes.

What should have been a simple matter of getting a 10 hour bus back to Arequipa was complicated by a fiesta bring held in Andagua. Unable to get a bus for 3 days we had to sit around and join in the festivities. One family invited us in for Chichas a type of beer made from maize. Apparently the fermentation process is started by chewing the maize. Even the Lonely Planet describes it as hygienically questionable!

We went to see a bull fight which was quite exciting - at one point a bull was released into the crowd of dancers and another managed to jump completely out of the ring and escape across the fields. Surprisingly only one person got knocked out although lots were trampled on and thrown to the floor.

Eventually we arrived back in Arequipa in which we have stayed for a few days eating good food and generally just recovering from our ordeal!! Today we leave for Lima and hopefully we will be meeting Heather (James' sister) in 3 days time. Also tomorrow is Anne's birthday but will be spending much of the time on a bus!!