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"We advise against all but essential travel to Nepal during the current period of enhanced tension, as there is a risk of being caught up in the violence on the streets. Those British Nationals already in Nepal should decide whether their presence is essential." [Foreign Commonwealth Office]. Well that's just typical isn't it. Just as I fly in. Welcome, as they say, to the magical country of Nepal. Is my presence essential? Depends on my current ego, but I think not. Nevertheless, I have been looking forward to visiting this country more than any other on my trip, and a little bit of violence adds to the pub stories.

Nepal - a fascinating culture in a troubled country

Simon Wadsworth
2006-09-04 14:38:31

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guess I'm a man not used to confrontation.

It was only midday and mixed emotions were already abound, as I then made my way on foot through an open residential area surrounded by fields, slightly lost, to the Boudha Stupa. One thing I've realise whilst travelling is that often the best way to see and feel a place is to do just that - get lost. It works wonders I assure you. However, no sooner had my body got over the earlier incident that I stumbled across a kid's football match abruptedly stop play and the crowds to run off. When I realised they were running towards something - rather than away from danger - I followed, and discovered the top floor of a house in flames and covered in the thickest black smoke. Thankfully, I don't think anyone was hurt, and the locals impressively and eventually put it out, but I doubt anything was left in tact, and my brain was beginning to go into overload mode.

If that wasn't enough (and finally, to those concerned that their dinner's getting cold), I get to the busy Boudha Stupa, to be approached by a Tibetan Monk exiled from Lhasa 18years ago, as if sensing my current disbelief. A wonderfully happy and funny man, who makes you think everything is right with the world, Dorje Lama showed me around his monastery, adorned me in a khata (white scarf), blessed and hugged me, and set me on my way again. The Stupa itself is the religious centre of the Nepalese Tibetans, where the culture is alive and unfettered, and bloody huge! Well, it is one of the largest in the world. Sitting on it, with beads hitting me from being dropped above, basking in the 30oC sun (which now scarily feels cooler - doesn't bode well for Everest), I go through the events that make up the most intriguing day of my travels so far, before cycling back to town to sleep peacefully.

Today I've just been buying food, walking the streets and watching the rejoices of the 1st day of New Year, as the sun lowers and shadows grow around Durbar Square. It appears I've lost my comical touch in this day-by-day account blog, but with lots of photos, I hope you don't mind. Anyways, Caroline has offered to write about Thailand very soon, and is far funnier than I. Wishing you all well, 6 months into my trip. Byebye, Simon x