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PART2: Everest Base Camp - Journey to the bottom of the top of the World

Simon Wadsworth
2006-09-04 14:01:46

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If you're reading this first by accident, please click 'previous blog' to read the first 5 days.

Day 6: Acclimatisation Day
My boots are covered in ice, so it was an utter delight putting my feet inside them this morning I can tell you, and I can't see out of my window for all the ice on the inside, but I don't care (much), as all around the sky is blue and the storm has gone. Woo! I plan a strenuous day walk to Chukhung 3.5hours away to see Island Peak (a relatively accessible 6000m peak), making the most of the good weather and views that are now dust and haze free.
But it seems I can't win, as today's weather brings new struggles - the main one being evily high snow reflectance. I overheard a conversation that went something like "forget Turkey and Barbados like, today was the hottest, like, I've ever felt, like" (can you guess where they're from?). I'd second that - my face felt like it was in a toaster, and no matter how much sun cream I put on, or how much I tried to shield my face from above and below, it still burnt up. I would like to believe it makes me look like a hardened traveler, but I think the truth is I look like a clown. Add to that walking through ice-melt bogs and my feet subsequently turning blue, chapped cut and swollen lips, and mild hurting snow blindness, despite wearing sunglasses (though, I guess that's what one gets for buying $3 sunglasses in Thailand), and it would appear that every possible technique to make me uncomfortable is taking place. . . The views were magnificent by the way. Rumours abound, the Nepalese strikes are disrupting plane flights out of Lukla - a lack of fuel is resulting in a 4-day backlog. My minor inkling to give up and turn round would be fruitless - onwards I go.

Day 7: Pheriche to T/Dughla (4600m)
A short 2hour walk today, up a mountain ice-rink, giving me time to be a hermit and let my face overcome sunburn and lips to ...