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"Chai chai...chai chai chai" shouts the 9th passing vendor holding a kettle or bucket to the train windows. How any of them can make ends meet competing with the other 17 (or so) sellers is beyond me, but they keep at it, in case a passenger missed the 'chai' call the 95th time, and may actually now want some. Chai is one of India's main drinks, tea with lashings of sugar and synonymous with India's trains. England could learn a thing or two from their cousins abroad when it comes to these long, moving things - they're quick, extensive and plentiful, every station is connected to the National Booking System by computer, and if you don't mind the occasional crowds or stink from the abysmal toilets, they're a great way of travelling.

From homeless guy to Wedding dancer

Simon Wadsworth
2006-09-04 13:25:09

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this moment.

As time went on, I relaxed a little, and lost track of the number of people I was introduced to - from the cool, Indian boys of 20, to the fat, powerful-looking Mafia-style men and their 90-something grandfathers. Conversations never lasted long for lack of England and Hindi, but this didn't matter as a minute later I would be shaking someone else's hand. "Hello. Nice to meet you, and would you mind meeting my brother Brahmin, and my 2nd cousin Vishnu would like to dance with you?" What can one say to such requests from someone resembling a drug lord?

At one point, Bharat and I go outside for icecream and fireworks watching, in time to see a surreal wedding procession take place of 2 couples also getting
married at the party. Lights, music, people waving framed paintings of Hindu gods in the air, and the grooms riding on horseback through the crowds, in and back out of the wedding hall. I admit, I couldn't make head nor tails of it, but it was fascinating to watch nevertheless.

I got fed, and of course, I was forced to dance some more, which very embarrassingly attracted nearly the entire party. Where's Rolf Harris when you need him? Thankfully, but strangely, they were impressed with my dancing and said so, which with joyous enthusiasm from me (no sarcasm, surely?), just meant I had to dance more, with money shoved into my mouth and men rubbing up against me (in an Indian dancing way, rather than a gay, nightclub way, I'd like to add). I got my photo taken with the newly-weds in their silver thrones (who looked surprisingly sombre), met more 'brothers' from the Mafia, and danced til I had no more energy left. Eventually, it all got a bit too much and I decided to leave, humming the songs on my rickshaw drive back to my hotel. Well, it beats a quiet meal and an early night. Having hardly slept in 42 hours, I pass out on my bed.

Everything after that will now seem a bit mundane. Basically, I spent 2 days chilling out in a pleasant town called Bundi. Blue and white-washed buildings, with more temples than rickshaws, backed by a wondrous brick palace and hill-top fort straight out of Arabian Nights, and perfect for that game of hide n' seek, or paintpalling, as long as you don't hit the 17th Century gold-leafed paintings dotted everywhere!

On the first night I watch the sun setting (while attacking fearless monkeys with a stick) from the fort, overlooking exactly how I imagined and hoped a Rajasthani town would look. On the second night, from the '84-pillared Cenotaph' (you know me, I checked and they weren't lying with the number), lit up for that perfect photo.

Friendliness continues to amaze me, with everyone saying hello and a market vendor even refusing my money for some apples, though I insisted. Just as it somehow appears to be an honour for many people to meet me, it really is a true honour and privalege in return, to be in this awesome country, which I'm enjoying immensely!

Having taken an 8hour busy bus trip, I'm now in Rajasthan's most romantic city, Udaipur, where I've decided to treat myself and have grabbed the best room at one of the best budget hotels in the city - a room (not just the hotel) which is even described in Lonely Planet, for the off-season price of $7.5. Yes, you would be right in thinking I'm a little happy about this. Well, it's the first time I've treated myself to a decent room all trip. A balcony with superb high-up views of the lake and palace, a bed in an alcove surrounded by windows of the same tear-jerking views, lots of space, and, oh yes, a bath! How I've missed such a thing!

As for Udaipur?...that's for next time. Two blogs in quick succession, I hope you don't mind. Thanks for reading as always. xx