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Friday 26 August, travelling through the Lake District

Great Britain 2005 - part VII

Elisabeth & Teije
2006-08-27 12:16:42

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It still is very cold, almost freezing, when we go outside this morning. How glad we are that we didn't sleep in a tent tonight. We like to camp, but rather with good weather. Well, at least it isn't raining anymore when we go on our way.

First we follow the road along the oblong Wast Water lake to Wasdale Head. A rough area with mountains everywhere, among them Scafell Pike, with 978 meters the highest mountain of England (Wales has the Snowdon which is a bit higher and Scotland has the highest mountain of the Great Britain, the Ben Nevis).

At the end of the valley we see the campsite where we had wanted to go yesterday: an open field with people in thick clothes. It is quite high here, so it must have been very cold last night. But the view is spectacular! There is also a small church and a sign says it is the smallest of England.

This road is a dead end, so we return the same way and then follow narrow and steep roads via Broughton in Furness and Coniston to Ambleside. We not only see lots of sheep, waterfalls and mountains, but also many tourists. It is busy, even on the smallest and most remote roads. The summer holiday in England isn't over yet and the Lake District is a popular destination for the English. And they are right, since it is gorgeous here.

The towns and villages that we pass through today look picturesque, we don't have a better word for it. In Ambleside we want to take a break but it takes us quite some time to find a free table where we can eat and drink something. It is not only because of the crowds, but also because more and more pubs have become totally smoking-free. Fortunately, we find a place just before it starts to rain heavily.

From Ambleside we take the B5343 that brings us along the Dungeon Ghyll Force, a 21 meters high waterfall, and then the road to the Wrynose Pass. The landscape becomes more desolate and the slopes steeper, until 25%. Now and then there is a parking place so we can stop to take pictures or to let other cars pass.

And then we come to the Hardknott Pass. Many parts of the road have an inclination of 25%, but the last kilometer tops them all: 30%. Our car engine isn't very strong, so we first let the other cars pass and then go up with full throttle. We are glad it isn't very long, but the road is wet and slippery. When we are on the top our speed has reduced to walking speed. The descent is as exciting as the way up, and we need our brakes regularly. When we are at the end we smell fresh baked bread, but it comes from our tires. Because we only had eyes for the road we missed the Roman fort that should be standing here on the hillside.

Near Boot we have a look at the train station. It is possible to travel by steam trainfrom Ravenglass through the mountains until this place and we would like to see a real steam engine actually drive. But to our surprise it is a mini locomotive and matching mini carriages. Adults have their heads against the roof, but for kids this must be really fun. It is too late for us to make a ride, maybe another time.

Since it will stay light for a couple of hours we decide to tour around a bit through the area. We like the mountains and the nature here, and there are cute little villages. We also pass Muncaster Castle at Ravensglass but it is too late to enter. It looks nice and there is an owl centre we would like to see, so we go there tomorrow morning again. Now it is time to go back to the hotel and turn on the heating since it has been a very cold day.