Home » India » Last hurrah in the city of the dead

I flew from Port Blair to Calcutta, thus ending 8 and a half months of solid over-landing. Arrival was a bit of a shock at first - after the peace of the Andamans, the chaos of Sudder Street was overwhelming. With my flight home booked for 17 days, I had no intention of hanging around Calcutta, and had bought my train ticket to Varanasi already, set to leave that night. So, I dropped my camera in to be repaired, and spent the day in the parks watching, trying, and failing to understand cricket. I guess after 6 months in Pakistan and India, there's no hope for this Irishman. The guy did a real DIY job on the camera, somehow managing to fix it with a shirt button and pin. And then I was off to Varanasi.

Last hurrah in the city of the dead

Conor Meleady
2006-08-21 18:49:12

Displayed times (last time: )

/>About the people along the way......

In the Balkans, I found the people to be initially unfriendly and dour. Once approached for help, however, they would always do their best (except in Croatia, where a shrug is a common answer). This was especially the case in Albania, where people went out of their way to help us.

With the Turks, it's hard for me to tell, since only Istanbul and Cappadocia (both heavily frequented by tourists) were places with a Turkish majority that I visited.

The Kurds seemed similar to the Pasthus of Pakistan - fiercely hospitable, unable to take no for an answer, they plied us with black tea (on 45 degree days) and cigarettes (we don't smoke). However, this is not a complaint at all, and I'll take it any day over any European country.

The Iranians were certainly the 'coolest' of the people I met - their hospitality was offered in the most casual way, like you'd be chatting, and they'd just mention that their mother was doing luch, and would you like to come? But it never got intense.

Iran, I might add, also had the most beautful women.

The Pashtus of Baluchistan and the North-West Frontier Province in Pakistan were, like I said, fiercely hospitable, like it's their duty to be friendly, sometimes unable to take no for an answer, but always meaning well. Again, chai and cigarettes were forced upon me.

The Kalasha seemed shy at first, but they're quite used to tourists now, and seemed a bit cynical to me. Generally a cheerful, friendly bunch though.

The people of Northern Pakistan, in particular the Ismailis, were laid back, smiling, and just wonderful people, who's give you the shirt off their back if you asked.

With the Punjabis of Pakistan, and the northern Indians, their friendliness seemed based on curiousity, letting off a round of questions, and not really taking in the answers. Occassionally they'd surprise you with their knowledge, and occassionallly they'd annoy you with their ignorance. But generally a very nice bunch of people.

The southern Indians are not so different to their northern brethren, just quicker to smile and quicker to joke.

My favourite place? - Pakistan.
Will I return? - to all these places, definately.

Best
Varanasi Full Image
moments?

Hearing the call to prayer for the first time on the trip in Mostar.

Just being in Istanbul.

Walking into the fish pond area of Urfa in southern Turkey - like stepping into a Bible story.

Crossing the Turkish/Iranian border.

Conversations with all Iranians.

Crossing the Iranian/Pakistan border.

Camping with shepherds in Kalasha summer pastures.

Dancing at an Ismaili wedding in Mastuj.

Trekking in northern Pakistan.

Sufi night and quawaali music in Lahore.

First night at the Golden Temple, Amritsar.

Meeting my girlfriend and mate at the start of January.

Rock-jumping in Hampi.

Dancing in Hampi.

The boat trip to Havelock island in the Andamans.

Sitting on the ghats in Varanasi, watching the madness.