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Pierwsze zimowe wejście na Shishę 14.01.2005 - Część I

moraw Wyświetlono: 658 razy 2005-09-21 21:59:08
  Ocena:2.65 (342 głosów)


Pierwsze zimowe wejście na Shishę 14.01.2005 - Część I - Pierwsza część artykułu o zimowej wyprawie na Shishę, czyli to co się działo po powrocie pod tę górę, z której zawracaliśmy rok wcześniej zaledwie 300 metrów od wierzchołka...
www.piotrmorawski.com

POWTÓRKA Z ROZRYWKI

Myśl o kolejnej wyprawie na Shishę prześladowała mnie od momentu nieudanego ataku szczytowego. Kiedy schodziłem 17 stycznia 2004 roku, zawracając zaledwie 300 metrów w pionie od wierzchołka, po pierwszym zimowym przejściu południowej ściany Shisha Pangma, ledwie trzymałem się na nogach. Ale myśl o powrocie i zmierzeniu się jeszcze raz z tą górą już zakiełkowała, by przez cały rok rosnąć i wydać w końcu owoce.

W tym roku, tak samo jak poprzednim kierownikiem zostaje Jan Szulc z trójmiejskiego Klubu Wysokogórskiego. Skład mamy podobny. Jedzie z nami znowu Simone Moro, który podejmował ze mną zeszłoroczną, ciężką decyzję o zaniechaniu ataku szczytowego. Wybiera się też Darek Załuski, który oprócz wspinania pełni ważną funkcję filmowca oraz Jacek Jawień. W Kathmandu ma na nas czekać ten sam co poprzednio kucharz, Jagat. Wyruszamy na początku grudnia, by jeszcze zdążyć zorganizować jakiś trekking i porządnie się zaaklimatyzować. W zeszłym roku wystartowaliśmy od razu pod górę i jakaś nieznana nam, grypopodobna choroba rozłożyła nas na łopatki.

Cały rok rozmyślań, biegania krótszych biegów i maratonów. Rok treningów i marzeń o szczycie. Wiedziałem, że jest w moim zasięgu. Czułem to już w zeszłym roku, jak rzucałem ostatnie spojrzenie za siebie schodząc w dół z wysokości prawie 7700 mnpm. Tym razem moja determinacja sięgała zenitu. Zrobiłem wszystko, by wytrenować swój organizm i psychikę. Nie boję się mrozu, długich oczekiwań na dobrą pogodę, wpinaczki w ciężkich warunkach. Teraz zobaczymy, co przyniesie przyszłość, a szczególnie pogoda. Czynnik, który zaważy na wszystkim, który jest głównym sprawcą porażek zimowych wypraw. Wystarczy, że przyjdzie długotrwająca wichura, albo nieustanny opad śniegu, a jak niepyszni zwiniemy bazę i wrócimy do domu. Ostatnim wejściem na niezdobyty zimą ośmiotysięcznik może pochwalić się Krzysztof Wielicki. Było to w noc sylwestrową 1988 roku, 17 lat temu! Ostatniego w ogóle zimowego wejścia dokonali Hiszpanie w styczniu 1994 roku, kiedy weszli na Cho Oyu, 11 lat temu!

DOLINA KHUMBU I AKLIMATYZACJA

Na trekking jednogłośnie wybraliśmy dolinę Khumbu. Przez dwa tygodnie chodzimy po przepięknej okolicy. Niebo rzadko kiedy zasnuwa się chmurami i słońce nas rozpieszcza. Wchodzimy coraz wyżej i przyzwyczajamy swoje organizmy do wysokości. W niesamowitych okolicznościach przyrody. Dookoła nas wznoszą się szczyty i ściany pełne swoich radosnych i tragicznych historii: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam. Zwieńczeniem naszego turystycznego wypadu jest wejście na Island Peak (6184 mnpm), z którego roztacza się panorama na groźną, południową ścianę Lhotse. Na której zginął m.in Jerzy Kukuczka.
Strona:  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6


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  • 0EaUVMK66s1 / 2013-11-18
    Bingo! Professor Chris Howell is noted on the Ohio Scholars Bureau page of Policy Matters. Sorry sir, if I outed you.As someone who maoejrd in poli sci at OSU and living in a stubbornly red state, I seek out reasonable and rational blogs. Clearly I\'ve found one here! http://rlsiif.com [url=http://zceabj.com]zceabj[/url] [link=http://gttuab.com]gttuab[/link]
  • ENix66NhXi / 2013-11-18
    Policy Matters Ohio is a progressive think tank in Cleveland, on whose board I serve, so it makes sense that I\'m the Oberlin prof rrereefd to, and that Tracie is not an Oberlin student. I haven\'t looked at, still less updated, that old website of mine in years. I should probably remove the links. If only I could remember how Dreamweaver works. http://ofsmidykqjd.com [url=http://gfltgchedav.com]gfltgchedav[/url] [link=http://qjfattyt.com]qjfattyt[/link]
  • Sc4XI4lV / 2013-11-16
    Nope the party lasts all week. scroll down to the bototm of that post. There will be a blue frog looking icon that reads, click to view/add link. it will take you to the link up page where you will scroll down to the bototm and click on add your link . This party will be open until wednesday night. Let me know if you have any further questions. See you there!
  • krEmU1iLg / 2013-11-16
    Whoa!So I\'m looking at an Oberlin preoossfr\'s web page because I was reading some good stuff on the Policy Matters site which listed him as an expert, then I clicked on his other links and saw this site, which I had to check out. And WTF!? The first story I see is on The Keep, some damn movie husband swears is so damn great, and isn\'t available in dvd.Anyway, I\'m bookmarking this site.Thanks.
  • RVt9YaCf0Sb / 2013-11-14
    Oberlin professor? Mike, do the terms of your plea bairagn really allow you to interact with students? Were the 1980s the glory decade of Nazi-occult movies and books? There are some really amazing shots in this movie that nicely foreshadow Mann\'s more full-fledged works like Manhunter, like the boat at sunset, and the motorcycle in the forest. Gabriel Byrne is creepily convincing as the head Nazi, but Ian McCellan is too over the top. Once everything goes wacky (about 2/3 in) there are some mountain/smoke scenes that looks like they might be paying tribute to Leni Riefenstahl films or is that a stretch? It also seems rather butchered, as if significant sequences were sacrificed to get the running time down. I could have done with at least one more Nazi having his eyes burned out of his skull. I wasn\'t really bored though, and being a fan of some of Mann\'s movies (and the 80s Miami Vice) I was excited to finally see it. The other movie I watched yesterday was from almost the exact same time 1984 but could not be more different: Alan Rudolph\'s Choose Me. It didn\'t seem much like Rudolph\'s other movies either. I\'m still digesting it. http://mdyhuxrjk.com [url=http://prokls.com]prokls[/url] [link=http://falclq.com]falclq[/link]
  • 6DKQYsaz / 2013-11-14
    I love Roku and the whole Roku experience. It awlelod me to cut the cable and save a good bit of money each month. It gives me plenty of programming, most of it free. It\'s also adding new channels all the time, about 360 or so at the moment.I current own the previous Roku XD 2050x and love it. It\'s not a perfect product, but it\'s a darn good one.This review is on my current purchase, the Roku 2 XD. It\'s not a perfect product either and it\'s just been released. It\'s also not quite ready for prime-time, but almost There are some differences between the XD and the Roku 2 XD. Most are good, but I do have two gripes. The original XD had both a wired connection and wireless available. I use wireless, but wired can be handy. When I first received my original XD, it wouldn\'t properly connect with my router. So, I hooked it up with an ethernet cable, which awlelod it to receive a quick update. This update fixed the problem and I haven\'t had any problems since. The wireless worked great.Now, the new Roku 2 XD only has a wireless connection. If you want a Roku 2 with an available wired connection, then you have to spend 100.00 to go up to the XS. I think this was a bad move on Roku\'s part. I have no desire to play games on my Roku and I especially don\'t like Angry Birds which is the main selling point of the XS.My other gripe is that the new Roku 2 XD no longer has the rewind/replay button. This neat little button will give you an instant replay of the past several seconds, allowing you to take a look at a movie scene you might have missed or a sports call you might want to replay.The original Roku XD had this button, but the new Roku 2 XD doesn\'t have it. Again, if you want this button, then you have to move up to the higher priced XS. Again, another bad call on the part of Roku in my opinion.As I mentioned previously, I think they might have rushed this product to market a bit too quickly. The main reason is that there are a few common channels (and popular private channels) that won\'t run on the new XD, while they run fine on the previous generation. Roku is working on the problem and releasing updates, but still, this shouldn\'t have happened on the scale that it did. For example, currently, Food Network Nighttime won\'t play at all and all of the NASA programming will actually crash the Roku and cause it to reboot. When the Roku 2 was first released the problems were worse, but the company has been working to correct it. However, with so many glitches at release, they really should have waited to refine the software before releasing it to the public.Now, I\'ll move on to a quick list of Pros and Cons for the Roku 2 XDPros: 1. Overall faster performance especially in menus 2. Wireless range and signal seems better than the previous models 3. Better looking menus and color schemes 4. Smaller Roku footprint.Cons: 1. No wired ethernet port on XD and HD, only on the XS 2. No rewind/recall button on remote of XD and HD, only on the XS 3. Seems to run a little warmer than previous models 4. Too much common content (and some private channels) won\'t work and can possibly crash/reboot the RokuOverall, it seems as if it\'ll be a great product, like the previous models, once they work out the glitches.I do wish they\'d have kept the wired ethernet port on the XD at least, as well as the rewind/recall button.If you have a previous generation Roku XD, stick with it for at least the next couple of months. Hopefully they\'ll have corrected the video/streaming problems that are plaguing it currently.Also, if you need a wired ethernet connection, then either stick with or track down a previous generation XD. Otherwise, if you\'re willing to spend the extra money on the XS, then do it. http://jsfolrlxlfm.com [url=http://unhstzfgezc.com]unhstzfgezc[/url] [link=http://tbesudv.com]tbesudv[/link]
  • 4Ty5FDDkO4 / 2013-11-13
    Rating I am really eoniyjng my new Roku XR. The setup was extremely easy and intuitive. I am running the ROKU XR wirelessly off of an N-Router (Trendnet 633) located on the other side of the house. I am getting 4 dots and HD (best quality) with no interuptions in play.My only complaint is that I have to go to Netflix and enter movies I want to watch on the Netflix Instant Queue before the Roku XR will play the movie. So basically, I have to go to my computer, find my TV shows or movies, enter them into the Instant Queue on the computer then goto the ROKU and my selections will be available to watch. I really wish I could scan for movies and shows thru the ROKU. Other than that, the setup and playback quality is excellent using HDMI. Recommended UPDATE 6/10/10 : ROKU and Netflix have fixed the annoying need to select your movies on your computer and then go to the ROKU to see your queue. Now you can search for movies on Netflix from inside the ROKU. BRAVO!!!
  • 43bRGSXbf / 2013-11-13
    that it won\'t talk through LinkSys hadrawre sorry, not true.VERY happy with this device. Embarrassingly close to euphoric, in fact, simply because of it\'s configuration and connectivity capabilities alone! The fact that it connected so quickly and so incredibly on my network is reason enough for me to own this thing. Let alone how cool it is to actually use, watch and enjoy, the very reason you get one in the first place!However, I simply must also add these additional review details:The box itself is very small, the size of a small jewelry box, and blended right in with my home theater system. It\'s even pleasing to the eye to some degree, not the typical mess of cables you\'d expect. It takes up virtually no shelf space and only has two cables connected to it if you\'re using wireless and HDMI: the HDMI cable itself and the power cord. That\'s it. The remote control itself is VERY small, be careful, it will slip down between couch cusions VERY easily. But it\'s very nice looking and very stupid-simple to operate, having only a few buttons for menu and playback control. The simplicity of the thing is so beautiful compared to the typical slap a million buttons on it for cool factor we\'re inundated with these days that I\'m darned close to taking the thing out to dinner and a movie.The device is extremely simple to use, no tech savvy-ness required. You will absolutely LOVE the simplicity of it. It is so amazingly simple that I\'m going to risk sounding like an idiot by calling it an engineering masterpiece. And trust me when I say that I know technology. As much as I like to go full-blown geek on most things, this device is so refreshingly simple that I\'m surprised at such a device can be so simple. I\'m also surprised at myself for being so thrilled with it.The included directions that come with it are incredibly simple. However, the device is so simple to hook up and use, I\'d offer that the included quick-start instructions aren\'t even necessary.My Roku is hooked up to a 52 Samsung HDTV at 1080p. The picture quality of the streamed content over the Roku is very impressive for a 720P device streaming compressed internet media content. Please understand that compression is required for internet streaming, and that you will notice some fuzz in the picture, especially if you have a big HDTV. That\'s the nature of internt streaming, and is not because of any shortcoming of the Roku product itself.Even though the Roku has true HD mode, do not expect crystal clear HD content remember, this device hooks up to ANY TV, not just HD. Imagine slightly better quality regualr TV on a giant screen. That\'s how it is watching a Roku on an HDTV, especially a big one, even with the Roku\'s HD display feature enabled. The menus are crystal clear in HD the actual streaming media content you\'ll be watching will not be, it\'s like watching slightly enhanced regualr TV, at least on large TVs. On smaller TVs, 32 and smaller, it will look fantastic.And the question many of you are wodnering: What if you will be using the Roku simultaneously with other computes or devices in your home on the same internet conenction? Simple: use common sense. You\'ll have no problems if all you\'re doing is email and web browsing while watching thigns on the Roku box. Online gaming and downloading giant files, however, might cause the Roku to kick picture quality down or pause for buffering or even stop it dead in its tracks altogether. I have had no problems whatsoever so far, but I make sure to keep computer use to light duty while watching content over the Roku. Use a little common sense and you\'ll have no problems. Surprisingly, it does a lot better than I thought it would.Critical: for wireless use, the Roku needs to be at Wireless-G or higher. If you have a PDA or older laptop that only does Wireless-A or B, and your internet router is in mixed mode (allows A, B, G and N), most wireless routers/access points will kick down in speed to match the slowest device talking to it. This will basically stop the Roku dead in its tracks by pretty much dropping it\'s access to the itnernet down to virtually nothing. Don\'t use old slow wireless-A/B products if you\'re using your Roku wirelessly.The most economical entertainment under the sun: NetFlix is only $10 a month, but you must understand that the Roku will only play the movies that NetFlix has made available in their watch now category, and that category really isn\'t all that impressive. Most NetFlix titles are still DVD-by-mail-only, so their entire catolog is not available to the Roku player. However, Amazon\'s On-Demand service, though it is pay-per-view and much more expensive at 1-3$ per movie viewing, has over 45,000 titles you can watch immediately on the Roku. Either way you go, this is an incredible entertainment system. As for me personally, we\'re subscribed to NetFlix and watch the occasional Amazon On-Demand title when a new release comes out we want to see. All total, we\'re probably spending no more than $20 a month to watch what we want to watch and when we want to watch it. This is at about 25-30% of a normal cable bill, and all while providing convenience, content and flexibility that cable or satellite can\'t even (currently) dream of. You just can\'t beat it.This is how all cable and satellite service content will eventually be delivered. Until then, you get it all right now with the Roku.And if you don\'t have Wireless-N in your home yet, and you\'re thinking about saving $10 and getting the lesser model, just get this one you\'re going to soon have Wireless-N in your home anyway, so get it right the first time. Otherwise you\'ll just end up buying this model later anyway.Also, this Roku box, when first plugged in, will download an update and then reboot itself. Afterwards, you will see the main menu for the first time and be pleasantly surprised to find that not only are NetFlix and Amazon On-Demand available to the Roku, but also several other music and video streaming services, such as Pandora, a NBL (baseball) streaming service, and several other trial services.All surprises with this box were pleasant, no bad experiences, failures or complaints whatsoever.I want to finish this review with the following statement: This by far dead serious the best $130 I have ever spent in my life. Bang for buck, I have never seen anything provide such incredible high-quality entertainment in such a well-engineered way in such an attractive, small, easy-to-use package. If you ever wanted to see magic in a little box, thsi is the product. Not often you get to see cool things like this come along, but here\'s a real winner of an example. Roku is misnamed. It should be Kudos .
  • jhkgM3ioCYm / 2013-11-12
    Czyli u carcajou, skoro wstępnie umf3wione albo u PFS. Może jcsezze ktos sie zgłosi. Dobrze, że jest wybf3r, bo chyba najlepiej tam, gdzie będzie można przewieźć bezpośrednio po akcji - bo chyba warto, żeby pojechały od razu - potem niebawem posadzić i do tego dokumentacja fotograficzna.Pozdrawiam!
  • oUnmsSWT / 2013-11-12
    Witam,mam podobna sytuadacje jak pani wczeadsniej, rozadwioaddlem sie z zona posiaaddamy dwjoke dzieci z czego opieka nad nimi zostala przyadznana mnie , matka ma ustaadlone konadtakty z coradkami w kazda sobote mieadsiaca w Osrod.Interwencji Kryadzyadsoadwej gdzy nie moze zabieadrac ich do swoadjego miejadsca zamieszadkaadnia ze wzgledu na bezadpieadczen. dzieci oraz moze dzwoadnic w nieaddziele, ponieaddzialki, srody i czwartki od 18 do 19. Z czego jesli przyadjezaddza na spoadtkaadnia z dzieci raz w mieadsiacu to jest dobrze a i kont. tel.sa spoadraaddyczne , ostatni mieadsiac temu.?.Sprawa dotyadczy tego, iz jesli juz jej sie zachce przyadjeadchac na spoadtkaadnie to nie zainadteadreadsuje sie tym czy juz mam z dziecmi zaplaadnoadwany czas tylko oczeadkuje ze sie dostoadsuadjemy, to samo dotyadczy kont.tel. straadszac nas , ze poda nas do sadu o utrudadniaadnie konadtakadtow z dziecmi?Ja rozuadmiem ze ma mozliadwosc w tym okreadsloadnym czaadsie na konadtakt z dziecmi ale ja tez nie moge ciaadgle kazac im sieaddziec w domu bo moze mamie sie przyadpoadmni o tel czy wizycie?czy w takim przyadpadku moge zloadzyc wnioadsek o zmniejadszeadnie tych konadtakadtow matce skoro sie z nich nie wywiazuje.?ciagle twieraddzac ze to tylko my musimy sie dostoadsoadwyadwac do wyroku a ona moze korzyadstac z tego jak sie jej podoba, dodam ze matka cierpi na schiadzoadfreadnie, powiem ze to baraddzo zabuadrza nasze zycie codzienne?Prosze baraddzo o porade i pozdrawiam.
  • orJdsjLV / 2013-11-12
    This is a very sad day for the geniune virwees worldwide of mummybox. Now, i thought that mummybox is a private channel app that was not in control of roku app services hence, there should not be any legal right for roku ( or come to that) and other companies to as they put it pull the plug on mummybox due to licencing regs. Sorry but the owners of the app mummybox should take up this issue with roku ( especially if mummybox owners have licenced permissions to broadcast the channels it streams). This is like the torrent websites, big brother attitude over the small guys but they haven\'t the guts to try it on with the guys just as big as them. Mummybox, if you can, link up with a third party as an app attachment. Roku can not stop you from doing this. Think of it this way, the yanks have tried to stop the pirate bay from torrent sharing but everything they have on pirate bay you can get on at least 100 other torrent websites, they try but they will never be able to stop it.WORD TO THE WISE TO THE LEGAL EAGLES, THE MORE YOU PRESSURE, THE MORE PAIN YOU WILL GAIN, NOT US.

REKLAMA


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