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Po Armenii i Gruzji

dp Wyświetlono: 5070 razy 2004-04-27 13:57:57
  Ocena:2.74 (383 głosów)


Na całą podróż, łącznie z ceną wiz, wydałam ok.2400 zł. Trwała ona w sumie miesiąc (28 sierpnia - 28 września 2001), z czego 10 dni zwiedzałam Gruzję i tyle samo Armenię.
W tym czasie w Armenii obchodzono 1700-lecie Chrześcijaństwa. Do Armenii wykupiłam wizę za 50$ w ambasadzie w Warszawie, do Gruzji w ambasadzie w Stambule za 60$ (w Polsce ambasady wtedy jeszcze nie było). Ceny mogły ulec zmianie.

Do Turcji najtaniej jechać pociągami, przechodząc piechotą granice państw. Moja trasa prowadziła przez Muszynę, Miśkolc (Słowacja), Oradeę (Rumunia), Bukareszt (Rumunia) i od razu do Stambułu. W Stambule trzy dni czeka się na wizę do Gruzji. W mieście tym ku rozpaczy podróżnych jest kilka dworców autobusowych, skąd można pojechać do Gruzji (przejście z Armenią jest na stałe zamknięte). Ja pojechałam promem (równowartość 2 zł.) na stronę azjatycką miasta i stamtąd klimatyzowanym autobusem za równowartość 40 zł przejechałam całą Turcję, do przejścia granicznego w Sarpie; Turcja-Gruzja (nad samiutkim Morzem Czarnym). Tu niestety czekają przykre niespodzianki.

Po pierwsze pada deszcz, a to wina klimatu subtropikalnego, a po drugie, mimo wykupionej wizy należy na granicy uiścić opłaty manipulacyjne, w sumie wynoszą one 18$ i długo można by dyskutować nad ich legalnością. To samo czeka w drodze powrotnej. Bezczelni mogą się wykłócać. Ale widoki wynagradzają wszystko: owiane mgłą herbaciane wzgórza (w Batumi też), ogromne juki, cyprysy, palmy, gaje bambusowe, granaty. Z przejścia odjeżdżają busiki w różne strony, ja pojechałam do Batumi, a potem do Poti. Miasta te są zaniedbane, pełne ruin, brudne. Po ulicach spokojnie spacerują świnie i krowy. Widok przygnębiający i ciągle pada, więc lepiej jechać na wschód, gdzie jest gorąco i sucho. Najlepiej poruszać się autobusami lub busikami (50 km. = 2-3 zł). Trzeba tylko mieć dużo czasu, bo autobusy wyjeżdżają zawsze z dużym opóźnieniem (ale tam nikt nigdzie się nie spieszy), a ich stan techniczny ma wiele do życzenia. Jazda takim autobusem po górskich przełęczach dostarcza wielu wrażeń, zwłaszcza, że kierowcy nie bardzo przejmują się tym, że autobus jest pełen i ostre zakręty nad przepaściami mogą doprowadzić kogoś do zawału. Trzeba się też liczyć z tym, że możemy siedzieć między workami z kartoflami, papryką, czy wapnem, (albo wszystkim na raz) a z pobliskiej torby wypadnie głowa koguta.

Z Poti pojechałam do Kutaisi. To ładne miasto i dobra baza wypadowa w góry. Polecam leżący 10 km. na północ od Kutaisi rezerwat Sataplia. Są tam skały ze śladami dinozaurów sprzed 120mln. lat (tyle, że te ślady są jakieś małe), oraz pieczary krasowe, mające długość do 500 m. Wycieczkę w to miejsce odbyłam z kilkoma świeżo zaprzyjaźnionymi mieszkańcami pobliskiej wsi, którzy skutecznie utrudniali mi podziwianie uroków natury, biorąc ze sobą skrzeczący radioodbiornik. Z Kutaisi można też bezpośrednio jechać w góry.
Strona:  1, 2, 3, 4, 5


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  • lZsKvt65DVqx / 2013-09-07
    20,000 might not be going home from this conflict, but there are 130,000 +/- that were adearly living in collective centers andweren\'t/aren\'t likely to go home either. On top of this there are local populations living in collective centers and/or worse housing conditions.The figures I saw showed that there are around 220,000 \"old caseload\" IDPs living in collective centres right now. This is what really shocked me when I arrived in Tbilisi, and made me worry about the fate of the \"new caseload\" much more. Once I then realised that many local populations, particularly outside Tbilisi are actually living in similar conditions to the IDPs, I wasn\'t sure whether to worry less or worry more... Certainly Georgia needs some radical solutions to their housing crisis, but - despite the IDP strategy approved by the government in April - it\'s likely that the government\'s fixation on privatization will prevent them from realizing those solutions. http://bkvyry.com [url=http://fbqeopvkom.com]fbqeopvkom[/url] [link=http://oehnlg.com]oehnlg[/link]
  • pVa7enqLE15r / 2013-08-31
    Oh yeah, faluobus stuff there you!
  • aoXK4czvhRg / 2013-08-30
    Two options sueegstgd:\"(1) do large-scale thorough rehabilitation of existing buildings,\" was something the government was looking at as a temporary shelter solution. Unfortunately the buildings identified by the government were 80% unsuitable, leading to questions about whether there are in fact suitable buildings.\"(2) to build new housing from scratch (NRC has done the latter on a small scale)\" - and this was the government\'s preferred option for the longer-term, using prefabricated housing. The problem is the scale and the timing - the critical factor is getting people into shelter for the winter. The danger is that, once they\'re in those temporary shelters, they\'re going to have to stay there for another 16 years - while the old caseload of IDPs continues to rot in the pits they live in.The other proposals seem more viable - rental subsidies and payments to host families. Both would draw on existing stock, would inject funds into the economy in a more distributed way and would not force the growth of a bubble economy around construction (which would mainly benefit the political mafia and NGOs). http://kfwtela.com [url=http://kwvlbokjpm.com]kwvlbokjpm[/url] [link=http://cvogotbkiu.com]cvogotbkiu[/link]
  • coNIoFZcbrt / 2013-08-30
    a thoughtful rseopnse, received in that email discussion on IDPS:-----------Thank you [...] for summarizing a number of the points in thediscussion. I just wanted to add a couple of points that might seeminconsequential, but I think that they are important.1 - 20,000 might not be going home from this conflict, but there are130,000 +/- that were already living in collective centers andweren\'t/aren\'t likely to go home either. On top of this there arelocal populations living in collective centers and/or worse housingconditions. There are people renting out their space in collectivecenters to migrant laborers from Samegrelo... It is important thatany approach keeps these facts in mind. This is one other reason whyI think (and agree with you) that local governments might be a wayin. They are interested in having a functioning local community,they can cross-cut across these issues.2 - GoG does have an IDP strategy - although it was developed in 2006-2007, it contains a lot of good ideas that will be very relevant whenthe funding starts coming through. I agree the question will be howto get the GoG to put the funding to back this document.3 - To say a few words about the Urban Institute program (fulldisclosure - I managed the program from 2006-2007). The housingmarket in Kutaisi did not skyrocket because of the program. Thevouchers were priced for the outskirts of the town (meaning a lowerthan average price for Kutaisi as a whole). Additionally in thesecond year of the project there were 81 families that purchasedhousing. Although I don\'t have the number of housing sales inKutaisi for 2006-2007 program year (Sept - Sept), the overall 2007numbers were 1,357 housing sales in Kutaisi. 81 sales are a drop inthe bucket and did not substantially contribute to the price ofhousing rising. The Georgian market did this, and it is still up195% compared to when we started the program. Do deal with this, wedeveloped a recommendation for the government of Georgia of thefundamentals of a flexible voucher pricing system that would be morein tune to the housing market flucuations than what we used inimplementing the project. The analysis of the two years of theprogram showed that income of the IDPs and hence cost of the voucherwas the largest (and only significant) contributing factor to IDPsbeing able to purchase housing. So...I would argue vouchers mightstill be relevant (say starting early next year) and that they wouldbe able to address the housing needs of 70-80% of the displacedpopulation. Subject to a few caveats of course.4 - A combination approach to shelter is needed. This is painfullyobvious, with so many pilot programs that were going on (CCrehabilitation, new construction, vouchers, social housing models,condominium management models) that there needed to be a model thatprovided choice to IDPs while being cost effective and providing asafety net to the most vulnerable IDPs. I would argue thatprivatization isn\'t necessarily bad in some cases because a) someCC\'s don\'t really need substantial renovation to become decent livingspaces (these are mainly ex-hotels I would say), b) privatizationdoesn\'t necessarily mean just privatizing, altough MRA I think wasseeing it that way. Privatization could be used in combination withrenovation which would provide IDPs the same thing vouchers did - aregular home that they owned (and presumably because they owned itthey would invest in it and maintain it - this theory has a lot ofacademic back-up from a host of situations).Okay - at this point I\'m beginning to ramble :-) And yes - there will be funding for the next few seasons thatdefinitely need to be taken advantage of.Andy [coordinates available on request]
  • jY6fzod1a / 2013-08-29
    a thoughtful rensopse, received in that email discussion on IDPS:-----------Thank you [...] for summarizing a number of the points in thediscussion. I just wanted to add a couple of points that might seeminconsequential, but I think that they are important.1 - 20,000 might not be going home from this conflict, but there are130,000 +/- that were already living in collective centers andweren\'t/aren\'t likely to go home either. On top of this there arelocal populations living in collective centers and/or worse housingconditions. There are people renting out their space in collectivecenters to migrant laborers from Samegrelo... It is important thatany approach keeps these facts in mind. This is one other reason whyI think (and agree with you) that local governments might be a wayin. They are interested in having a functioning local community,they can cross-cut across these issues.2 - GoG does have an IDP strategy - although it was developed in 2006-2007, it contains a lot of good ideas that will be very relevant whenthe funding starts coming through. I agree the question will be howto get the GoG to put the funding to back this document.3 - To say a few words about the Urban Institute program (fulldisclosure - I managed the program from 2006-2007). The housingmarket in Kutaisi did not skyrocket because of the program. Thevouchers were priced for the outskirts of the town (meaning a lowerthan average price for Kutaisi as a whole). Additionally in thesecond year of the project there were 81 families that purchasedhousing. Although I don\'t have the number of housing sales inKutaisi for 2006-2007 program year (Sept - Sept), the overall 2007numbers were 1,357 housing sales in Kutaisi. 81 sales are a drop inthe bucket and did not substantially contribute to the price ofhousing rising. The Georgian market did this, and it is still up195% compared to when we started the program. Do deal with this, wedeveloped a recommendation for the government of Georgia of thefundamentals of a flexible voucher pricing system that would be morein tune to the housing market flucuations than what we used inimplementing the project. The analysis of the two years of theprogram showed that income of the IDPs and hence cost of the voucherwas the largest (and only significant) contributing factor to IDPsbeing able to purchase housing. So...I would argue vouchers mightstill be relevant (say starting early next year) and that they wouldbe able to address the housing needs of 70-80% of the displacedpopulation. Subject to a few caveats of course.4 - A combination approach to shelter is needed. This is painfullyobvious, with so many pilot programs that were going on (CCrehabilitation, new construction, vouchers, social housing models,condominium management models) that there needed to be a model thatprovided choice to IDPs while being cost effective and providing asafety net to the most vulnerable IDPs. I would argue thatprivatization isn\'t necessarily bad in some cases because a) someCC\'s don\'t really need substantial renovation to become decent livingspaces (these are mainly ex-hotels I would say), b) privatizationdoesn\'t necessarily mean just privatizing, altough MRA I think wasseeing it that way. Privatization could be used in combination withrenovation which would provide IDPs the same thing vouchers did - aregular home that they owned (and presumably because they owned itthey would invest in it and maintain it - this theory has a lot ofacademic back-up from a host of situations).Okay - at this point I\'m beginning to ramble :-) And yes - there will be funding for the next few seasons thatdefinitely need to be taken advantage of.Andy [coordinates available on request]
  • Ambitny / 2011-01-26
    Zgadzam się z Bubą.....Na fotce widać stojącą na drodze KROWĘ!!!!! Ludzie, bez przesady....
  • Buba / 2006-10-13
    W artykule jest napisane, ze Batumi jest brudnym i zaniedbanym krajem, a po drogach swobodnie biegaja swinie. Ja sam pochodze z Batumi i jest to nie prawda, moze trafiaja sie brudne dzielnice, ale tak jest w kazdym miescie. np. Warszawa po jednej stronie jest ladna a w niektorych miejscach grasuja same zbiry i zlodzieje. W Batumi jest wiele pieknych miejsc: piekne bulwary, plaze, plac Eras Moedani, gdzie ciagle odbywaja sie koncerty oraz wiele pieknych teatrow, egzotycznych palm i ludzi dobrze nastawionych tolerancyjnie do obcokrajowcoe (nie to co w Polsce, chociaz oczywiscie w Polsce tez sa dobrzy ludzie, nie mowie, ze nie). wszystkim polecam wyjazd do Gruzji i Armenii, bo naprawde sie oplaca.

REKLAMA


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